Propionate Sealer for Wood Muskie Baits - by Frank

Wood Muskie Baits need to be completely sealed prior to priming and painting.  If you've read "Construction basics for Wood Musky Lures"  -  We'd suggested, after all the wood working  (planing, cutting, drilling, shaping and sanding) has been completed, it's time to seal the wood....

What you'll need to start:

* Propionate pellets.
* Acetone - to dissolve the pellets.  
* Wide mouth jars with seal-able lids.
* A method of submerging your baits - they'll want to float.
* A method of hanging your bait's as they dry.

Steps to make and use Propionate as a Penetrating Sealer and a Base coat:

* Jar #1 needs a ratio of 1 oz. Propionate pellets per 11 ounces of Acetone.  This may take 3 to 5 days to  completely dissolve and Jar #1 will have the consistency of 2% milk.  This is the mixture for soaking.

* Jar #2 needs a ratio of 2 oz. Propionate  pellets per 10 ounces of Acetone.  Again, this may take 3 to 5 days to dissolve (you can speed up this process by shaking the sealed jars, or stirring with an unpainted stick).  This mixture will have the consistency of warm thin honey.  This mixture is used to build a tough base coat.

Soaking/Sealer:  Jar #1 - This thin mixture penetrates and seals the pours of wood, while also raising the grain.  Start by submerging the baits for 30 - 60 minutes until you no longer see air bubbles coming out of the wood.  Remove the baits and hang to dry until all the vapors are gone, approx 30 minutes at the most.  Lightly sand to a smooth surface, and soak again in Jar #1 for about 15 minutes, hang to dry about 15 minutes.  Final and third soak until bubbles are no longer visible.  Note:  If your wood has bubbles on the surface after it's dry, then give it a light sanding before proceeding to Jar #2.

Building a Base Coat:  Jar #2 - Dip baits in Jar #2 - swirl it around a couple of times and pull it out letting it drip back into Jar #2 - hang and allow to dry.  Note: Fishing lures should be dipped alternating head first, then tail first, to create an even coat.  After dipping as many times as needed (some prefer dipping 7 to 10 times) the baits are ready for scuffing and primer.  Please note: Minimal sanding or scuffing is required between coats, just enough to smooth air bubbles or runs before the next dip.  Acetone has the chemical properties to etch itself, so adhesion within multiple dips is constant.

This is the best way we've found to seal our baits, and so far, this has eliminated paint/finish failures.

To purchase Propionate - David Beacham <dbeacham@sc.rr.com>     Email David Beacham for Propionate purchases.  David includes instructions with every purchase.

These are some Propionate tips from David Beacham:

"New tips for Propionate...

I am now using one jar of thin and I keep a jar of super thick just to add to the thin jar when needed.  With the thin jar I get better cover and a very smooth finish with just a few extra dips.  Drying time is faster and any bubbles that may be on the bait will pop easier when it is removed from the jar to drip.

To make the super thick jar, I will just add about 1 part pellets and 4 parts acetone.  This takes longer to dissolve but it will stay ready to add to your thin jar any time you need a refill.  All you need to do is add about 1 part thick and about 3 to 4 parts acetone.  Just a light stir will mix it in."

Thanks for Reading,,, and best of luck this season!!

Frank

Warning: Acetone is extremely flammable, and needs to be used safely, in a well ventilated area.  Respirators should be worn while Soaking and Sealing baits!!  Please,,,, Safety First!!